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Our instructions were clear: Get to the bottom as quickly as possible, find a suitable spot to minimize the current and our movement, then let the ocean come to you. The action in Galapagos doesn't wait for stragglers to get situated. "You should constantly be looking above and around you towards the open water." Jaime, our dive guide told us. "You will miss seeing most of the aquatic life if you spend too much time focusing on the reef."

Jaime then explained that on several of the sites, the current could be strong. We would need to find a secure vantage point that blocked the current from which to watch.

"Diving in the Galapagos Islands is like very few places on Earth," he said. "You don't know when your next encounter will occur or what type of animal it will be, but you know its coming."

After that first briefing, we geared up and headed for the Panga (small inflatable vessel; we know them as Zodiacs) to drop us around the perimeter of Seymour Island. Most of the diving in Galapagos is conducted from these little inflatables, as most sites are located within 50 feet of the shoreline.

The morning sun had broken through the clouds, adding about ten degrees to the temperature inside our wetsuits. But the cool breeze blowing off the Pacific provided some comfort on the brief voyage to the dive site. Once in position, all eight of us back-rolled back into the ocean in a manner Cousteau himself would have been proud of.

I immediately realized that the water was warmer than expected when I didn't feel that all too familiar smack in the face from cold water. It was comfortable, in the lower 70s, with very little current, a rarity in the archipelago.

My eyes fixated on the rocky bottom, 50 feet below me as I started my descent. Greeting us there were several streamer hogfish. Like so many of the animals that inhabit these islands, they showed no fear of the bubble blowing aliens sharing their world.

This interaction was abruptly interrupted by the sound of the divemaster's rattle. I froze as 20 scalloped hammerheads swam rapidly past, just fifteen feet overhead. Each shark bearing scars, souvenirs from trysts from excited males.

After regaining our composure, a pack of seven white-tipped sharks were sleeping in a sandy patch. From a distance they were reminiscent of a small airfield, only the sharks were the planes. Several sluggishly rose out of their sandy beds and swam away as we approached to take a couple photos.


A few minutes later, a squadron of eagle rays cruise towards us, but were abruptly scared off by an inquisitive trio of sea lions. This precocious trio showcased their underwater gymnastic skills in front of an enthusiastic audience. Each pass faster and more and more agile, until one stopped long enough to attempt to steal a fin from a diver. Not bad for the first day of a vacation.

A World Heritage site, the Galapagos archipelago is a land and marine wonderland that sits approximately 600 miles west of Ecuador. This chain consists of 13 major and six minor islands. These islands were formed at least nine million years ago when an opening between two of the Earth's crustal plates created ideal conditions for volcanic eruptions. These openings are known as "hot spots". Similar to the Hawaiian Islands, active volcanoes are still creating and forming these islands. These plates are still moving towards the east at 6 inches per year.

Evidence of their violent formation is everywhere. Numerous volcanic craters almost as pristine as the day they went inactive, lie throughout the islands. On Bartolome Island, the craters are so virgin, you can still visualize eruptions as you walk along the "Moonscape", a path that takes you within feet of the craters.

The Moonscape path leads to the Bartolome Lighthouse, situated at the island's peak, 435 feet and over 400 steps above sea level. Adventurous souls who complete this physically demanding trek earn the spectacular view of the small natural harbor and Pinnacle Rock, one of the archipelagos most famous landmarks.

Penguins at the Equator? Most of the ancestors of the land creatures found throughout the islands either rode the Nino current from the Northeast, or the Humboldt Current from the Southeast. This is why there is such a myriad of animal life. In addition to sea birds like frigates, red footed and blue-footed boobies, visitors experience penguins, fur seals, and sea lions from the colder climates. From the warmer climates, finches, land and marine iguanas, lava lizards, and the famous Galapagos tortoises, are common.


All co-inhabit with little fear of man or predation. In fact, you'll find that you'll be stepping over creatures because they will not move!

These currents also help maintain the balance on these secluded islands. Every 10-15 years a strong El Nino invades the archipelago with much warmer water temperatures. These events cause many of the feeder fish to move into deeper, cooler waters. So only the only the strongest survive. "This is how natural selection works on these islands. Only the strongest, most agile, and smartest survive". Explained Jaime. "After a strong El Nino, it takes ten to fifteen for populations to build back up", he continued.

In the ocean: Divers can expect to encounter scalloped hammerhead sharks, galapagos sharks, manta rays, eagle rays, cow rays, marbled sting rays, white tipped sharks, jeweled moray eels; small tropicals such as trumpetfish, moorish idols, as well as enormous schools of tuna; and possibly penguins, whale sharks and sea turtles on the right day.

On Land: Land and marine iguanas, lava lizards, blue and red-footed boobies, penguins, albatrosses, sea lions, fur seals, Galapagos cactuses, tortoises, and 14 different species of finch. Many of these animals have absolutely no fear of humans. You'll find yourself stepping over or around them just to stay on the designate pathways.

Whether you prefer the land tours or the underwater tours, the Galapagos Islands is a scenic destination with incredible rewards for the adventurous cruiser.